While St. Pierre acknowledges that he’s not the first to try to bridge the divide between producers and consumers, he says that the limited success of previous attempts was due largely to a lack of cooperation within the industry.
“The way I look at it, the whole culinary tourism industry is like a pie,” he explains, launching into a lengthy analogy that he’s obviously used before. “If you look at it, everybody that’s involved is a small piece of that pie. Everybody should work together, and instead of trying to steal somebody else’s piece of the pie, they could say, ‘We’re all in this together, and we’re gong to work to make this pie bigger, therefore my piece of the pie will get bigger.’ That’s how I look at it. Now I’m part of the pie and I’m going to work with everybody else to try to make the pie bigger so that my piece of the pie gets bigger.”
St. Pierre says he knew he wanted to be a chef when he was just 13 years old, when he took his first required cooking class in school. From that one class came the passion that would lead him to high school cooking classes and a summer job in the kitchen of a kids’ camp, to the Institut de Turisme et d’Hôtellerie du Quebec, where he earned his three-year cooking diploma in just one year.
Speaking barely a word of English, St. Pierre moved to Vancouver in 1982, met his wife and began a new life on the West Coast. Since relocating to the Comox Valley in the early 1990s, St. Pierre has worked as head chef at many of the best local restaurants, including the Old House, Crown Isle and, most recently, an eight-year stint at the Kingfisher. He’s also become a Certified Chef de Cuisine, a prestigious title that reflects his extensive kitchen experience.
With a thick moustache and clear blue eyes that sparkle with kindness and bonhomie, Ronald St. Pierre is like the favourite uncle that everybody enjoys being around. By all accounts he’s a pleasure to work with, and he’s earned such respect within the community that he’s often simply addressed as “Chef”—even when he’s far from the kitchen.
He compares his craft to that of an artist, who has a vision and then turns it into a work of art. “It’s the same with food,” he says. “It’s part of me. I can put a dish together in my head without putting it together and know pretty closely what it’s going to taste like. It’s in me; it’s always been in me.”
His enthusiasm for food and drink (he’s also a wine sommelier) is never as obvious as when he talks about the Comox Valley’s local products.
“If you go to a grocery store and buy a jumbo US carrot, and you go to the farmers’ market and pick up a nice carrot that the farmer sells you there, and you put them side by side and you eat them, which one do you like better? Go try it, and that will give you the answer. It’s not comparable.
“When you have local food that’s grown fresh that’s available to you and it’s full of really good nutrients, healthy for you and full of flavour, it’s day and night.”
Those who have dined at Locals since it opened its doors on June 24 (St. Pierre’s birthday) seem to be agreeing. Feedback has been entirely positive, says the proud chef, and business has been booming. “So many people have stopped me and said, ‘It’s such a good idea, we’re so happy that you’re supporting the local producers!’” he says.
I had the pleasure of experiencing Locals one recent Tuesday evening and was impressed to say the least. The decor is elegant and earthy, with comfortable green-cushioned chairs and faux-suede table runners set amidst avocado green and red brick walls, creating a relaxing ambiance in which to enjoy St. Pierre’s gastronomic delights.
The entire experience was fantastic, but the hands-down highlight was my main course. Charbroiled tenderloin wrapped in double smoked local bacon and served with a caramelized onion and lavender confit, the Island Bison Tournedos were quite likely the best thing I’ve ever put into my mouth.
My fellow diners seemed to be having similar experiences. Overheard throughout the cozy dining room over the course of the evening were snippets of conversation like “This is the best cannelloni I’ve ever had,” and “The fish is to die for.”
Open for lunch and dinner five days a week, Locals features an ever changing menu, based on what is in season and available at the time. Most popular so far has been Island Bison Tournedos, the Braised Glen Alwin Farm Lamb, and seafood dishes such as the Seasonal Seafood Linguine. And diners can’t seem to get enough of the Frozen Lemon Meringue Pie and Trio of Crème Brule for dessert.
With an agriculture sector that keeps on growing and a local community that continues to embrace homegrown products, Locals appears destined for success. In a world of mass-produced, highly processed foods that are shipped to our grocery stores from every corner of the globe, it’s refreshing to be reminded of the incredible bounty that made our predecessors name this place the Land of Plenty.
Locals is located at 368 Eighth Street, Courtenay and is open Tues. to Sat. for lunch and dinner. For reservations call 250-338-6493 or visit Locals’ web site.